These are general notes for cacti and other succulents in containers. Each listing in the catalog has its own field notes for light, water and cold hardiness.
When your plant arrives
Unwrap it as soon as it arrives and check it over. Bare-root plants can sit dry for several days without harm; they evolved for exactly this.
Pot it into dry, fast-draining mix and leave it unwatered for about a week. Any roots broken in transit will callus over first, which keeps rot out. Then water thoroughly.
Keep it in bright, indirect light for the first week or two. A plant that has spent days in a box will sunburn if it goes straight into full sun, especially in summer.
Soil
Mostly mineral, so water runs straight through. A simple mix is half pumice or perlite and half a quality cactus or potting soil. For the more rot-prone species, push it toward two-thirds mineral. Use a pot with a drainage hole, always.
Water
Soak, then let it dry. In the growing season, water deeply and wait until the mix is dry most of the way down before watering again. In winter most of these plants rest: water sparingly or not at all, especially if they’re cool.
More plants are lost to water than to thirst. When in doubt, wait a few days.
Light
As much as you can give, introduced gradually. Outdoors in the low desert, many species appreciate afternoon shade in midsummer. Indoors, a south or west window is the minimum; a grow light helps a great deal.
Cold
Each listing gives the lowest temperature the plant tolerates when established and dry. Wet cold is far more dangerous than dry cold, so stop watering ahead of a cold snap.
Handling
Use tongs, folded newspaper or a strip of foam for spiny plants. Prickly pears and chollas carry glochids, tiny barbed bristles that are easiest to remove with tape. Wear gloves with euphorbias: their milky sap irritates skin and eyes.